This video answers a the big question. "What is the best lens for travel photography? For documentary photography?"
I’ll give you a very comprehensive answer. I’ll talk about the best lenses for the full frame sensor system as well as the Micro 43 system that I currently use.
Of course I want you to have an idea of what kinds of images these recommended best travel photography lenses produce. There will be plenty of photo examples.
What about the lens’ usability, weight, discreetness and stuff like that? I’ll mention all that in the video too!
📸 My Travel Photography Course - https://goo.gl/2obNBB
FREE ebooks & case studies at my site "The Photographic Process" - https://goo.gl/NCm2bT
📷 LINKS TO ALL THE GEAR I TALK ABOUT IN THE VIDEO BELOW
24-70mm type lenses and equivalents
BHPhoto and Amazon links
Recommended for full frame sensor cameras
Latest Canon 24-70mm f/2.8 lens: https://bhpho.to/2HE5Np7 | http://amzn.to/2plbzoZ
Recommended Sony 24-70mm f/2.8: https://bhpho.to/2FIcJFe | http://amzn.to/2HJ93Qn
Recommended Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8: https://bhpho.to/2FFDLx2 | http://amzn.to/2DBinmS
Sigma for Canon mount 24-70mm f/2.8 lens: https://bhpho.to/2HHkl7D | http://amzn.to/2phJPld
Sigma for Nikon mount 24-70mm f/2.8 24-70mm f/2.8: https://bhpho.to/2FGCGFf | http://amzn.to/2DBBg8Y
Recommended for cropped frame sensors
Canon 17-55 f/2.8 (for the cropped sensor Canons) https://bhpho.to/2pnspn2 | http://amzn.to/2pkQiMe
Panasonic 12-35 f/2.8 lens (Micro 43): https://bhpho.to/2HGxA8i | http://amzn.to/2DCsMys
Fujifilm XF 16-55mm f/2.8 R LM WR Lens (APSC): https://bhpho.to/2HEsqd1 | http://amzn.to/2FSiqwg
Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 12-40mm f/2.8 Lens (Micro 43) Not quite 24-80 equivalent, but close enough: https://bhpho.to/2pj6w8J | http://amzn.to/2HJ9ev1
30 and 35mm type lenses and equivalents
Recommended for cropped sensor cameras
Panasonic Leica DG Summilux 15mm f/1.7 ASPH. Lens (Micro 43): https://bhpho.to/2pnq383 | http://amzn.to/2FSj3WE
Olympus M.Zuiko Digital 17mm f/1.8 Lens (Micro 43): https://bhpho.to/2HHS9l5 | http://amzn.to/2HF1pWQ
Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 17mm f/1.2 PRO Lens (Micro 43): https://bhpho.to/2FI6Gkc | http://amzn.to/2HHkvvx
Fujifilm XF 23mm f/2 R WR Lens (APSC): https://bhpho.to/2HFDjvd | http://amzn.to/2pkByfo
Sony E 20mm f/2.8 Lens (APSC): https://bhpho.to/2HEJ4tc | http://amzn.to/2FMejpu
Camera bodies that I talk about in the video:
Canon 5D MKIV The new version of what I used to use in my digital SLR days https://bhpho.to/2FV0DF0 | http://amzn.to/2tWqXNh
Panasonic GX80 - My favorite Micro 43 camera https://bhpho.to/2FVpwAm | http://amzn.to/2HIasGG
Panasonic GX9 new version of the GX80 https://bhpho.to/2FMnWEZ | http://amzn.to/2HFCPW8
Fuji X100F - https://bhpho.to/2IDQ36T | http://amzn.to/2GAHIAd
Sony a6500 -https://bhpho.to/2FX6zgF | http://amzn.to/2FI1AnT
Hey all! Of course this video is purely my opinion formed through my experiences. These are the lenses which I think are best. If you have a different idea, if there’s a lens you can’t live without - please do share!
On a separate note: Do you like this new format? What do you think of the video being filmed on the road in different locations?
I agree with what a few others say, the 20mm f1.7 is a classic, got it in a kit with the GF1 and didn’t buy any other lenses for a while. It’s not too bad at single focus on the GX80, but might hunt a bit too much for some of your low light candid work though, as well as obviously being a bit longer. Enjoyed your reasoning behind not using the 12-35, I’m actually thinking of selling mine and the 35-100, and getting the 12-100 as my “hiking lens”, along with a wide zoom and the 20mm.
I love that you're filming in Colombia and I do hope you come visit Medellín or many other places you'll definitely enjoy. I am a Nikon photographer (D5500) trying to make more professional photos with a tight budget and this is a great video for future reference. The $600 price range is more adequate for me at the moment, but I am saving up! Please do share your best choice of one single lens if you were in my position and had a Nikon 5500. Cheers from Colombia...
So what happened in Istanbul when you got stopped by local wiseguys in Istanbul with your Canon 5D Mk3? I have also gotten in trouble taking photos in a foreign country (China) so I'm just wondering how it ended for you.
The way you laid out the reasoning was really helpful. Thank you! I'm shooting Canon EF-M and I was thinking of getting their telephoto 55-200mm. I already have the 22mm (35mm equiv) and I feel now I should get the 11-22 instead of a telephoto zoom for best effect. Thank you!
I had the same experience with small cameras vs large. I make yearly trips overseas and three years ago my camera was a Sony APSC with the kit lens (16-50mm, 24-75 ff equivalent). Not the sharpest lens, but it was small. Combine that with silent mode on the Sony and I got great candid shots. Fast forward to my las couple of trips, and I am at a Sony full frame with the 24-105. The quality is much better, but I just can’t come away with as intimate a shot. I think for travel, I am going to go back to a crop sensor Sony and I’ll take your recommendation to get the 20mm for it.
Thanks for the help... I am trying to learn as much as I can before heading to Vietnam with my father that served there in 1970... I have to tell his story on a limited budget and gear. 3 weeks there with just one back pack
For me , 24-105 f/4 L . It is the best I can afford , it is stabilised, so even with the f4 max apeture , it is still very usable in low light ,particularly with the better high iso performance of my 6d . I carry an 85mm f1.8 for shallow DOF.
Compared to the micro 4/3 systems , it is bulky but it is better in this regard than my old 7d setup.
Anthony Mcdonald That, IMO, is actually a very good travel lens on FF if size and discretion aren’t chief concerns. Especially if you want a little more reach in your shots.
On M43 a similar option might be the Olympus 12-100 (24-200 equivalent) f/4. Also pretty bulky, but a great lens for capturing a wide range of compositions.
I am a 'lucky amateur' and have used a Sonly H9 'bridge' camera for years. Love the macro ability but many general images were too dark. I decided to buy a new DSLR and just bought Canon 800D (APS-C) due to general ease of use, cost, and connectivity. Based on looking at many reviews, I only bought the body and purchased the Sigma 17-50mm with optical stablisation separately. This lens will give almost identical focal lengths to the full frame lens you recommended for the Canon. I am travelling soon and have decided to take only one lens and your video has confirmed my decision to take only the Sigma. I have also bought the Canon 55-250mm zoom and will buy the SIgma 105mm macro, but I do not want to carry a huge bag with the additional lenses while still trying to enjoy the holiday experience.
Very nice video and stunning images, Mitch! As a Fujifilm X-System landscape and product photographer, I use one of the lenses you showed, the Fujinon XF16-55 f/2.8, for its' near-prime sharpness, versatility, and weather-sealed build quality. Since I shoot tripod-mounted 99% of the time, I don't miss IBIS, and don't shoot video or wide open, since I want foreground and background in focus. As I don't shoot scenes with people, perhaps this is a stupid question, but what's your stance on model releases for recognizable subjects in your images? One more question if I may...Have you noticed any appreciable difference in lens sharpness between the various systems you have used? Thank you sir!
Lens sharpness - not really noticed a difference, but I generally get the best lenses that I can. So they're all good after a certain stage.
Model releases - Nope. I don't use the images for commercial purposes - no need for model releases. I talked a little about the topic at the end of my video on people photography.
Thanks for the insights. Based on this material I did purchase my first DSLR. I was owning mirror analog camera Zenit from the '80 more then a decade a go. Then it got damaged at some point and I was not into digital cameras as they were confusing for me on how they operate. I finally gave it a go but was never into full frame due to bulkiness.
I bought Leica 15mm F/1.7 as you mentioned on your video and put it on m4/3 Lumix GX-80/85 about year ago. I really love prime lenses and it is my first one - it has phenomenal image quality at aperture 4. I preffer to shoot between F/2.8-8 for best image quality. I've added X-Rite pocket color calibration and Manfrotto ND 8, 64, 500. Now I'm planning to add Godox TT350 speedlight with X1 remote trigger - just waiting for shipment from aliexpress (30-60 days, grr... but cost me 130USD total).
Actually it seems you never use flash but only ambient light but it would be interesting to know why or I'm maybe wrong - would be nice to see some video about this subject! I am currently into OCF and HSS to overcome the harsh sunlight and expose proper ambient light without underexposure of subject matter or opposite. The GX-80/85 cannot act as master or trigger for other speedlights in sync mode and is also limited up to 160 shutter with build in flash. So during daylight when I expose for ambient and then intend to lid with flash my subject sometimes it gets tricky so I've to use ND filter or as I intend to in future use speedlight with high speed synchronization.
This set works really nice for me for travel and street photography which I do the most. I work as global consultant and travel a lot across the world - about 65% of travel. Unfortunately don't have a time due to work to explore far away from mainstream but I try to search my niche and actually avoid for the most part places where tourists do their shots.
What I don't like about the camera is that I'm not able to set minimal shutter speed on Aperture mode with auto ISO. I end up quite often with blurry images when some action is going on at night or poor lighting. In other hand I do not like Shutter priority mode because it tends to go on Aperture extremes which result in less image quaity. I would go into Manual mode istead but sometimes when ambient is constantly changing I miss opportunity or end up with bad composition. To overcome this I just learned that Lumix has iISO which suppose to detect movement in frame and jump ISO up - I was aware about the setting but did not know what it does until just now. Therefore I will be testing it out. Still it is weard that Lumix refuse to put minimal shutter speed option on the majority of their systems.
There is also a bug in software when using touch screen as AF point selection - when you set it as AF only it actually also set up AE too. I tend to use presets C1-3 all in A mode but one with AFC on-hold on back button and other two with AE on-hold on back button but with pin-point AE and AFS or central-weight AE and central one block AFS. BTW the idea of using touch screen for AF point selection is really nice to have and its something that I find not many cameras offer. In my early days I disabled it because I am left eye dominant so I was touching it with my nose from time to time. But aiming from center and re-composing has some drawbacks as you may still loose a bit of focus. So I've learned to use it.
What I've learned so far is that it is hard to do your first purchase when you don't know much about photography or even if you know basically this stuff is expensive and most people have only one or two shots at this or they are stuck with something that is ending up not best for them for a long time or they give up with some loss when they get rid off this equipment.
Therefore my advise is to find someones photography that you like and learn from them what was their journey and what they use. Therefore thaks MItchell for sharing that experience! Before you buy your setup keep in mind that camera and lens is part of the story - diverse you budget into additional stuff that you will need. IMO it should be some ND filters, external speedlight, color calibration pallet and hardware/software for your monitor. Some learning materials, and software like photoshop and lightroom or rawtherapee (much better tool then lightroom) and GIMP (monolyph for raster imaging). The selection of all of this tools will increase by far your overall capability, knowledge and better photography then even more expensive camera or lens.
The most important part is to stay with whatever you choose long enough to understand all what it is and it is not capable of doing. Only then you will know what you care about and what is indifferent for you when you do your next purchase. Stick with your camera for a year or two and nail absolutately everything it has to offer. Use all options and functions and test them see how they work in personal workshop as well as in the field - see what works and whats not - because of good or poor design and ergonomics choices implemented by producer but also bound to your own taste and prefference.
Only then you are ready for your next and first really own personalized choice of what you want to move on next.
Thanks for awesome videos and I hope it was helpful for whomever might interest.
+mitchellkphotos I hope you are well. Thanks for response. I was not sure to which video you're refering regarding using light. I watched that video some time ago but forgot about this really important principle you teach of using light accordingly to mood. Probably because back then when I watched it for the 1st time I had so many things to grasp but I remember even then I thought that this is very important note which I will incorporate into my photography.
Next very important thing I learned is to protect your highlights and embrace shadows. Previously I tried to keep my exposition "to te right" but also I thought I was doing something wrong if it was too dark - as incorrectly exposed and I was blowing some highlihgts to keep the whole exposition somewhat balanced. Now I started to use shadows to help me compose and bring attention to my subject matter and I always proect my hihglights from blowing up. This was quite important to understand for me that camera doesn't have the same dynamic range as human eye and you always have to favor something - but I always thought you have to balance it to be as close to human eye as possible while in truth it appears you need to make artistic choices. In one hand it is something one could always observe in profestional photography but in other hand I never give it a proper thought until it was pointed out to me how profesional shots differ in a way that they protect the highlights and embrace the shadows - then it really clicked for me.
This tip comes from cinematography mostly but it has its merrits in photography too.
This two concepts helped me a lot to be ale to shoot even in very harsh light conditions.
Thanks for great content. Recently I watched you video about cars - so my wish to you as few problems with offroad cars as possible. I'm currenlty replacing the frame of my Nissan Patrol - so I know how expensive it can be!
Thanks for the detailed reply. In regards to flash - I don't use it any more. I did before. Now I see no point. Not sure if you watched my video about light - that explains my philosophy. I want to photograph the world as it is for most part.
About NDs - yes, can be pretty useful, especially for longer shutter speeds during the day. I personally think that Capture One is the best post-processing software by the way. Best color reproduction for my liking.
All of your photos are stunning. In your case, it's like what they say: It's not the camera that's important, it's the photographer.
- Some people need all the help that they can get, however. Like me. Since I've picked up the Canon EOS 6D Mk II - to capture very low light shots. See pana here. This was taken about 10 minutes before it got totally dark. Yes, it's at ISO of 40,000 , but it's passable IMO.
- I have the 70D ... but since I've picked up the 6D Mk II, the 70D has been on the shelf.
+Raj Biswas At high ISO there is no comparison. Full frame of course kills M43.
DOF will depend on lens. I have a f1.2 85mm equivalent and I can get shallow DOF with that and you won't tell the difference between M43 and Full frame. But, overall full frame will always produce more shallow DOF with equivalent lenses.
I've no interest in comparing just for comparing. I think the best thing is to know what the camera can and can't do and get the most out of that. In this case, I was saying that the size was a game changer for me. For low light, I got a Sony a7III. 🙂
+mitchellkphotos I guess in this case it is subjective...but I have done side by side studio test comparison SOOC and the difference is quite clear at 100% especially at high ISO. However, I have never seen a real world side by side comparison using DOF equivalency to really claim I can tell the difference. Maybe someone will make a video on it sometime 😊.
AHS Society It’s a lot more complicated than that. Mostly it’s important to have some mass, good ergonomics, good balance, relative to considerations like focal length, and the situation can be quite favorable from any interchangeable lens system as long as the photographer has good technique. And then there are considerations like a larger sensor collecting more light allowing ISO to be pushed a little more with acceptable image quality for better shutter speed. Or in practice, very good IBIS and/or lens stabilization, which is easier technology to implement with smaller sensors (e.g. Olympus and Panasonic’s offerings). In practice those smaller bodies can win out by a mile, or a Sony with IBIS can significantly outperform a Canon without lens IS.
Thank you for this excellent video. For the last few years I’ve shot exclusively with an apsc 35 1.8 with iOS on my Nikon D7200 It was a dream come true. In trying to be smaller and lighter I switched to a Fuji xt3 with a 23 2.0. Im a one lens primary only type of guy. I like the learning curve of the 23 but have to say it is very limiting to me as a portrait photographer. The 35 apsc is the one lens I would choose to shoot anything, anywhere. I’m not a fan of Fuji’s ancient lens technology but I am quite pleased with the xt3 for stills, not so much for video. Having said that the D7200 is a far superior still camera in almost every way.
lens is great but all these images were processed so nicely that 99.9999% of people will never be able to get anywhere near the look of these. i promise you, this gentlemen can make cellphone pictures look a thousand times better then i can with my dslr and l lenses. sad really :(
Great video, I love your content!
I shoot primarily with a full frame DSLR, and a 24-70 is definitely my most frequently used lens, but just last week I picked up a Fuji X-E1 with the 27mm pancake lens.
My DSLR is going nowhere, but so far I love having the Fuji for all the times I wouldn't feel comfortable using a larger system, or want to capture more candid moments. There's definitely room for both!
Thank you for this video. I am learning the Olympus 4/3 system and you answered a lot of my questions. I have a better understanding of video recorders( semi and professional camcorders and only used fixed prime lens cameras in the Olympus line SP 800uz that is why I stuck with Olympus. Thank you for stopping me from trying to make the camera do what it is not capable of.
They… new to the channel. Great info. I’m also thinking of changing my lens set up. I shoot on the Fuji system. Everyone raves about their 56mm portrait lens. Your video doesn’t mention a prime portrait lens yet you get amazing pics. Perhaps the 16-55mm f2.8 is a better option due to being more versatile.
+mitchellkphotos ok right on thats cool :)
But hey man i just really wanna say that you really opened up my mind too a grander view of photography.........After looking into the lumix gear and its lens.......I really wish i did more home work before jumping into a camera system......
But aside from all that , Mitch , the way you explain yourself , your thoughts & your outlook on photography as a hole?
It really shows the passion you have for the art and the understanding you have for capturing that moment in time :)
Please keep the videos and photos coming as well as that awesome pawsome mind of your's open to us viewer's :)
thanks again :)
For lack of a more technical term, your full frame Canon with 24-70 lens had a richness to the photos that I saw in few other shots with other systems. I shoot an Olympus OM-D E-M1 but I would never say that it has the richness and detail that made my full frame Canon 6D had, though it is far more portable. What's more important? Taking thousands of photos with a 4/3rds because you can take it more places, or taking fewer high quality photos with a larger system. No one can answer that for another, but for me, I appreciate the quality of a full frame...I just can't tote one around anymore.
Hi Mitchel, what scenarios do you think a 24-70mm lense will be suited for on an apec body. The effective focal range would be 36-105 mm, a bit more intimate on portraits as well as the eyesight perspective of 35mm with a fast 2.8f aperture. Want to know your views
I don't know if it's because I'm a smaller guy, but I've never seemed to have the problem of standing out with a 24-70 2.8 on my FF DSLR. And having the newer Nikon version, I DO have in-lens vibration reduction! :-)
Interesting video though I really don't feel that your later shots have the same magical look of your earlier work wit the DSLR. You just can't get the same levels of OOF area transition with the smaller sensors and this is the beauty of the Sony A7r series that I use
+mitchellkphotos Of course and all I was trying to say was what for me is a limitation of the format (I'm a Sony Pro user) and that from this video I prefer the look of the earlier work. It is not only about DOF but about the overall 'look' (again an overused and hard to define word) that I find I can achieve with a FF sensor. Like you having been with Nikon and Leica (first film and then digital) for much of my working life I tried out the Fuji X series and as much as I liked the ergonomics of these cameras as opposed tot he Sony's in the end I decided to fully commit to the Sony system. By the way I really like your work
Well, sure, you can't have the same shallow DOF, but, shallow DOF is overused. Also, I'm not showing the images I can make with my f1.2 lens. I'm simply showing my favourite lens. The magical part is subjective, but you can't expect shallow DOF with a 30mm equivalent on any camera. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for a great review! I use PENTAX cameras with in-camera stabilization, with a 17-70 Sigma 2.8 lens. Very useful. ALso a 70-300 sigma macro. And being lighter, I use a Pentax Q-s1 with 3 lenses, one prime. Very small and very sharp results.
This video is so informative and packed with content, and I love the fact that you remain unbiased despite your ambassador position! As a beginner, I'd like to know how you think about an optical viewfinder and an electronic LCD one as on the Panasonic camera you're using. Which do you prefer and why? Also, I plan to switch from iPhone to a real camera and really like the Canon 200D because it's compact and accepts all canon lenses, but your take on mirror-less cameras is making me reconsider Panasonic and Fujifilm, though I fear they have a more limited lens selection (or am I wrong?) I'm a total beginner and would really appreciate your comment :)
Now that you've had it for a while wht do you think about the Sony 20mm? I love that it's a pancake but from what I've seen it doesn't exactly wow in the sharpness department. Also the f2.8 bit is disappointing but the only other option I've seen is a sharper and unfortunately larger sigma 19mm f2.8. Sony seems weirdly lacking in this particular department.
You are right that Sony is lacking in this department. It was a decent lens, but I've since sold the camera and the lens because I got an a7III. I have way too many cameras, so I sold some, gifted some. For the full frame Sony, I feel that the 28mm f2 is very decent.
Thx for sharing. I agree with your op-ed from my own experiences.
Very true -- human subjects are sensitive to the size of the camera you carry. Point-and-shoot size cameras are very discreet while "Big Bazooka" DSLRs really turn off some people. Big DSLRs are best used in big events where you want to look like a photojournalist so you can jockey you way to the front. In many travel situations, it's a deficit to use a DSLR.
mitchellkphotos thanks for answer. Which camera do you use for video ? I would also like GX9 but hear it Video limitation are no mic in, not good video AF, 1.25x crop in 4K. All this should be better on G9 which pushes me in this direction even though I would prefer the smaller size of GX9. Though choice.
Multiplying aperture by crop factor will let you know what your background blur will be like in relation to a larger sensor if shooting a similar field of view, but the light gathering ability of the lens is still the same for an f2.8 on a full frame or crop sensor. The better low light capability is a function of the larger less dense pixels on a larger sensor.
I thought I mentioned that somewhere, but after reading your comment I realise I didn't. Yes. It's the same as far as light gathering abilities and you are right about the large sensor. Hard to keep all this in mind at the time of the shoot. Good call.
I have to say that you hit the nail on the head regarding MFT cameras and the size of the camera system (not just the lens). I use both a Nikon D750 and a Oly EM10 Mk II. For travel and street photography I exclusively use the Oly simply because my D750+24-120 zoom is SO HEAVY! MFT will live on despite what some other famous blogger duo is trying to do to kill it.
Hi , If I have crop camera like the Nikon D80 , I know it is quite old , so the lens can be like 18-55 ? I have several lenses like 50,18-135 , 18-55,55-300 . what would you choose based on that arsenal for travel photography with kids ?
First time seen your videos and I love the Honest review.you have a new sub here. Those lenses are way out of my league as I'm a biguiner but is always good to know for the future..thanks for sharing those amazing pics...
+Iurii Korobeinikov Hey dude... You don't have to apologize about what kind of equipment you're using. If you can "work it", and get pleasing results... That's really what matters... This is true of even film cameras.
- It's not the camera, it's the photographer.
+mitchellkphotos sure. The gear itself is rather outdated - the original 6d. But the thing is , 40mm pancake turns any full frame canon into a portable and rather lightweight travelling companion. Cheers!
So glad I came across this video. A m43 camera was my first foray into photography. Recently I bought a FF Sony, and I'm loving it. I still can't justify giving up the oly epl5, it's just so small and convenient. I like to use older manual film lenses to keep the size down too. Your shots are fantastic, no matter the system or lens. Photography is always 90% the person behind the lens!
Thanks very much for your comment. Yes, Micro 43 cameras are awesome because they are so small. There are some drawbacks and you can't do some things with them that you can with a FF, but, I'd say for most cases they don't matter.
Excellent insights here and well made videos. I often wonder what that magic lens is, but it really doesn’t exist. Looks like you made peace with the compromises you have to make to achieve relative inconspicuousness.
Totally agree! I have the Sony A7R2 and my favorite walk around lens is the 35mm 2.8. It's like a little pancake lens. I can throw camera w lens in my purse and off I go. If I need a close up, I can always switch to the 85mm, 1.8. I love the freedom even though I might not get the reach for a few shots. Love your photography and have been following your for several years. Enjoy the ride.
Hi, I love this video, it actually convinced me to get a mirrorless camera instead of an APS-C 800D! But which one? Do you recommend the Panasonic GX80/GX85 with the 15mm 1.7 or the Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark III with the 17mm 1.8? I will mainly use this as a travel camera for street photography/portraits and some landscapes probably. Looking forward to hearing from you!
Sorry. Disagree. I'm sure that if I had not written which photos were taken with which cameras – you'd not have known. There are also a few other factors. Stay tuned for another video where I'll have some images from the Sony full frame.
For Sony, I would think the new Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 is worth considering, very light, and lower price, meaning more room in your kit for something else. Closer minimum focusing distance the Sony lenses. Though I might lean towards the Sony 24-105mm for the extra reach and versatility, probably would not care about the 1 stop difference with how well today's cameras perform in low light + stabilisation.
For me I cant live without the Sony FE 85mm 1.8, its just ridiculously light weight. Ill just add in something else for versatility.
With mirrorless you can also use silent shutter (electronic shutter) and turn off camera/AF sounds for silent shooting, which is a major advantage for being discreet.
Daniel Lee It’s a marvelous lens, and I’d definitely prefer it for travel over the 24-70 f/2.8 GM, but on an A7 body it is still very far from discreet, and remains fairly bulky. Very bulky and heavy compared to the small M43 bodies with the like of a 17mm f/1.8 prime lens.
Thanks Michael! I am starting with my EF 24-70 but I am really thankful about Crops x Aperture trick tip. I have a Cannon T7i and my travel kit has a EF-S 10-18, EF 24-70 and a EF 70-300. You channel is amazing! Congratulations!
MV Having some weight and good balance helps. Not prevent by any means, but I get your meaning. On the other hand a M43 camera from Olympus or Panasonic with their IBIS (easier to implement well on smaller sensors) will allow for far longer sharp exposures.
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Did the MSP Film Society know France would be on the cusp of a World Cup win when they planned their week of independent French film? DID THEY? The smarties actually likely scheduled Lumières Françaises to coincide with Sat’s Bastille… Continue Reading →
Weds // TV Girl + Infinity Crush + Cheap Fantasy.
“Here in New York you don’t need excuses to dress like a girl.” The effortless hipster cool of TV Girl’s sound mixes a sunny produced pop, throwback to ’60s French yé-yé, with more relaxed late night beats and samples, making them… Continue Reading →
Thurs // The Summit Ratskeller’s Grand Reopening.